Mt Huber via Huber ledges

Conditions report

ACMG Guide · Jul 13, 2025 · Lake Louise

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Conditions report

Location
Mt Huber, Huber bivy

We've climbed Mt Huber on July 12 via the Huber ledges, with a bivy.
The Huber ledges are entirely dry, lots of water in the 2 gullies before the bivy site.
Bivy site is snow free. Glacier coverage was somewhat supportive, rain saturated isothermal snow, good travel follwing existing track, ankle to boottop penetration. Good water source at the rockband accessing upper glacier.
Mt Huber required ice screw anchors for the last 2 pitches, snow coverage on summit.
Conditions for Mt Victoria looked good, ice and snow in the gullies gaining the ridge, little evidence of rockfall.
We had horrible weather and did not attempt Victoria on Sunday. It rained every day to ridgetop, high winds, no overnight freeze, saturated snowpack, low visibility/whiteout conditions for most of the day on the ridge.
The lower glacier just off the bivy spot was raked by rockfall day and night, with a couple of blocks crossing the track.