Climbing season in the Bugaboos in on

I spent 5 days in the Bugaboos July 4-8, and guided an ascent of Surfs Up on Snowpatch spire, as well as the NE ridge of Bugaboo spire. Both routes are dry and in good conditions. I've included some photos to supplement the below conditions report.

July 4 & 5 were quite cold, partly cloudy, with cumulus cloud buildup & graupel showers in the afternoon. July 6-7 were perfect, cloudless days, and significantly warmer. July 8 had unsettled weather and thunderstorms early in the morning, followed by clearing.

The area has a large amount of snow for this time of year, which is providing fantastic travel conditions for the time being. It is possible to cross the creek below the Kain hut using a snow bridge - however, this option is rapidly melting out. Be extremely cautious traveling on snow in this area, as there are many places where a large cavity exists underneath. The approach to Applebee campground is largely still on snow, and best done using mountain boots. The campground is half covered in snow, but there are many dry tent sites available. The water tap isn't functional yet, but you can collect water from various pools / creeks nearby.

Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is currently well covered in snow and in good condition for travel. There have been some rockfall events, particularly out of the prominent climbers L gully, which are more likely to occur during times of peak warming.

Overall, this is a great time to be in the Bugaboos, with fantastic travel conditions on snow, and largely dry rock. Enjoy!