Climbing Conditions

Returned from a short but blustery trip to the Neil Colgan hut today. Approaching the hut yesterday, we were surprised to follow fresh Grizzly tracks up to the second bench before they disappeared down the steep gully towards moraine lake. We managed to avoid crampons until the steel chains which were covered in verglas, as were the rock pitches beside and above. The crevasses on the Fay glacier are nearly hidden due to fresh snow and wind. We abandoned our attempt for the summit above the berschrund due to very strong winds and a lot of wind transport.