Observed conditions from the ACMG AAG exam

The ACMG training and assessment program just finished the fall AAG exam. Here is a quick summary of areas visited and noted conditions.

Rogers Pass (August 28-29, 2023)

Mount Rogers 1896 (Wheeler Variation), Tupper West Ridge, Sir Donald NW Ridge, Uto SW Ridge to NW Ridge.

Dry conditions on the rock routes. Observed lots of rockfall on the steep ice and gully features. High pressure, little smoke. Water at the Sir Donald bivy was low and lots of recreational users. Flowing water found at Rogers-Grant col. Hardware on all routes listed are on good condition.

Columbia Icefields (August 28-29, September 1-2, 2023)

Silverhorn, Athabasca North Glacier Circuit

Athabasca North glacier tongue rock bypass on lookers left is fixed with a bolts and a handline. Equipped for a single 60m rope on ascent and descent. Glaciers are generally dry, and recent precipitation did not produce much snow, firn line at 3000m. Silverhorn was climbed in great conditions. We observed loose scree over core ice heading from Boundary col towards A2 with a lot of overhead rockfall and decided not to travel that way. Dry conditions overall and rockfall noted.

Bow Valley (August 30, September 1-4)

Forbidden Corner, Kahl Wall, Eeyore’s Tail, Gooseberry, N Ridge of EEOR, The Fold, Eisenhower Tower, Brewers Buttress, Lady Mac ESE Ridge, Buller Buttress #4, Lorette S Ridge

All rock routes dry, as expected. Recent rain event has made travel on descents more tacky and more enjoyable. No water observed at Castle Mountain Hut approach. New topo available on Mountain Project for Eeyore’s Tail. Main concern was rockfall

Thanks to the 2023 AAGE student group for compiling the report!

Play safe