Wedge and Kidd - ice

Quick report

Grant P · Nov 19, 2023 · North 40

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Quick report

Weather
cloudy, sunny, warm
Climb Name
Wedge Smear
Ice Quality
ok

I was hoping for a little more ice for take a newbie day. Most of the climb is not there. The far left has half a pitch although we were able to climb a couple variations at least. We left as a second party showed up. More than two parties would not be good until more ice shows up. Two seepage pillars on the right might be ok for someone looking to finish on a drytool route although the pillar further right didn't look good to place screws, chandeliered. Over on the left side, the ice that is there climbs ok but it's still possible to swing into rock in a couple spots. Then the transition at the lip is fairly thin, and continues as snow and scrambling to the rap anchor. Shorter screws are better for the thickness of available ice. So Wedge Smear is partly in but mostly bare rock. Over on My Kidd, Kidd Falls is looking fairly big. Obviously zero comment on the quality of conditions from so far away. Mostly added a couple pics for people to see the Avi terrain above. Looks to have lower than usual accumulation so far. Most of the morning the wind was quite minimal at Wedge Smear. It noticeably picked up around mid day and I was looking over at Kidd for transport. Didn't notice any transport but maybe there was little left for transport after wind events earlier this week.