Andromeda E Ridge and AA Col conditions

Conditions report

ACMG Guide · Jul 13, 2023 · Icefields

View on map
Observation photo 1Observation photo 2Observation photo 3Observation photo 4Observation photo 5Observation photo 6

Conditions report

Location
Mt. Andromeda

We climbed Andromeda by the E ridge as part of a practicum and training day.
AA col looks horrific on the Athabasca side, pictures tell everything.
Conditions were much better on Andromeda side, with solid snow plugs still bridging the schrund in 2 different spots. Middle schrund line needs a bodylength of steep ice to be climbed with good screws at the waist. Ice ramp is straightforward on screw anchors, very little rockfall observed going up or down. Right side seems more sheltered by the steep wall above it, while left side is melting out with lots of stacked rocks on the edge.
Transitioning from the col onto the rock was challenging, very loose rock and steep terrain there, hard to protect or get good stances. Rest of the rock rib up to ridge is dry and very loose.
Once on the ridge it's walking on flat ice or scree to summit, no crampons needed once the ridge broadens. There is water on the ridge in a tiny glacial pond.