Rockies: Columbia Icefields

We spent May 14-17 on the Columbia Icefields, climbing Stutfield East and West; West, South and North Twins; and Twin Tower.

Travel and climbing conditions were good. We did not see any signs of recent avalanche activity. There are lots of sags everywhere but crevasse bridges seemed strong.

The Athabasca Glacier is in normal to good condition for this time of year.

We noted that the descent from North Twin to the col between N Twin and Twin Tower was more difficult than we have seen in the past. Whereas previously it was just steep snow slopes, this year it is broken up with crevasses, seracs and patches of bare ice. It was quite involved to make this descent and the subsequent re-ascent. We made a few rappels to get down and had to climb a few short pitches of 35 degree ice and snow to get back up. See photo.