Ice - Tokum Pole
WeatherGrant P · Feb 27, 2021 · Lake Louise
Quick report
- Weather
- warm, sunny
- Climb Name
- Tokum Pole
- Ice Quality
- good
- Climbing Wind Conditions
- blowingSnowAcrossTheValley
Climb was a little brittle and didnt seem to have been climbed in a couple days because it had healed over a little. Travelled now. We had 2 ropes of 2. Right side is over open water. Left side has a base to stand on below. We lowered in to the right side with a top belay because of the open water and the fact the ice was overhanging daggers down low. Belaying in the sun was amazing. Left side crew rapped in and needed belay jackets in the shade. Climb went from the base but was harder and technical down low. Top out on the left line was tricky drytooling and the overhanging huge snow bombs made topping out awkward for our friends. There was a sizable fracture across the ice near the top but mostly looks to have a lot of rock attachment behind the ice. The walk out would not seem to be an option. Thin sketchy ice along the canyon floor leads to what could be a heinous top out even if you made it that far. A deep open pool sits half way up the exit ramble. We also noted around the peaks there was a fair bit of snow transport.
Weather
- Wind Speed
- windSpeedLight
- Sky Condition
- scatteredClouds
- Temperature Trend
- rising
- Precipitation Type
- none
Warm when the sun was out. Could get just a wee bit chilly when clouds were around. A slight breeze in the valley bottom but strong winds transporting snow near the peaks.