Mt Whyte, dry ridges, snowy bowls

Conditions report

ACMG Guide · Jul 11, 2026 · Lake Louise

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Conditions report

Location
Lake Louise group

Good conditions going up Mt Whyte/Niblock on July 11. Firm supportive snow on approach, dry ridges, lots of water everywhere almost up to the col. We used an axe a few times, but not the crampons. It is possible to stay entirely off the snow on the ledges leading to the col, but not in the upper bowl. Travel was excellent, with great easy bootpacking where needed.
See pics of Aberdeen, S Victoria and Lefroy for an idea of higher elevation coverage.