Guiness Gully/Guiness Stout - Ice Climb

Quick report

Weather

cloudy

Climbed Guiness gully morning of Dec 31st and broke trail up to the base of Guiness Stout (stopped 30m from the route). Busy climb that day. We were 1st of 3 other parties there. Trace amount of new storm snow overnight but lots of snow there now from major storm just before Christmas. No sign of recent avalanche activity (of note here also read in previous min avalanche control work was not conducted above Guiness Dec 23rd -30th). No signs of snow instability around us and/or when moving btw pitches. Very calm and cloudy all day with no wind noticed or new snow falling. Of note: There is now significant snow accumulation in the start zone above Guiness Gully. We waded through hip deep and often waist deep powder atop slab at times/ ground others for 1hr 15 mins with intention of climbing Guiness Stout/High Test... We stuck climber's left of the gully once above the last pitch and low angle ice step of GG and approached through the trees where possible to avoid spending unnecessary time in the middle of that avalanche path. Many deeper pockets of snow/ beg. of wind transport evident. We stopped 5 mins from Stout and decided to retreat after seeing half the climb covered in snow and now already soaked from the hike up there... more waist deep wading and crossing the start zone/more wading to reach High Test did not appeal either. Good to get a close eye view up in the terrain above GG though. It's significant for sure! Ice - Guiness Gully climbed and protected well..very pleasant and 'friendly' ice conditions. 1st pitch is fat.