Glacier Conditions Update

We climbed Gari via the standard N. Face route on Friday via heli access to the park boundary (thank you Black Tusk Heli). The Warren Glacier is currently riddled with “creepy” crevasses that look minor until you get closer and see the yawning amphitheater below your feet. Otherwise the Garibaldi Neve is in good shape for August with fairly easy travel up to the bergschrund. The huge crevasse barring access to the bergschrund can be passed on either side (we went climbers’ right) but this will continue to deteriorate rapidly in this warm weather and crossing where we did may not be an option next week. We stuck to the standard route passing the ‘schrund on its left, still a good floor in the ‘schrund and good snow climbing. Despite hot temps the snow remained in decent shape throughout the day except for steep, East-facing slopes which were wet and sloppy.