Avalanche Gulch

The Avalanche Gulch route is well past its prime. Conditions continue to deteriorate as the warm summer weather continues. Overall, the picture remains similar to previous weeks. Rockfall is increasing, the snowline is receding up the mountain, and snow surfaces are becoming more three-dimensional. Rangers and climbers observed several instances of active rockfall over the weekend, and plentiful recent rockfall (see photos). Firm conditions with slide-for-life potential remain on the hazard list. 

Now is a good time to think about pivoting to other climbing routes. Less experienced climbers should consider Clear Creek. More experienced climbers may consider climbing routes out of the North Gate and Brewer Creek Trailheads. As always, rockfall hazard exists on all routes. Wear a helmet, climb and descend early in the day, and minimize your time in locations with overhead hazard. An ice axe, crampons, a helmet, and the skills to use them well remain mandatory on all climbing routes. 

Day hiking in Avalanche Gulch - whether to the Shasta Alpine Hut (Horse Camp), or higher destinations like 50/50 Flat or Helen Lake is a worthy endeavor. Wildflowers are abundant. 

General Climbing Reminders:

• Glissading is possible. However, make sure that the snow is soft and that you can control your speed. Never glissade with crampons on your boots, and never glissade through the Redbanks. 
• Monitor the weather closely. Choose to climb on days with favorable weather, but remember that conditions can change quickly on a 14,000-foot peak. Never climb into a whiteout and have a backup plan in case things go wrong. This includes carrying equipment for self-rescue. 
• Stay on route and have a backup method of navigation.
• Please do your part to help keep  Mount Shasta clean - it takes a village!

See our updated Climbing Advisory for more details about climbing Mount Shasta.