Mount Garibaldi post cycle

Conditions report

ACMG Guide · Jun 23, 2026 · Garibaldi

View on map
Observation photo 1Observation photo 2Observation photo 3

Conditions report

Location
Mount Garibaldi

Guided Rob, a friendly Welshman, over the solstice. Found easy travel and almost completely supportive steps up to the bergschrund at 7 am. We followed a tongue of impressive debris from a previous schrund collapse which had scoured a tongue below the face and deposited large blocks. The initial plan to pass the schrund on the right was thwarted by a slightly overhanging lip while the main passage on the right has collapsed. The left side of the face is threatened by a remaining cornice, so we climbed easily through the center to gain the left side of the lowest rock.
We were told that 9 people bailed on the face on Saturday due to warm temps early in the morning. We were back over the schrund on a rock deadman by 8:30, and weren't concerned by conditions. In our experience conditions have settled since the viral video of a large slab on the right side of the face a week ago.
Lovely to look down on busy Cleveland Avenue on solstice, a great way to pass a Monday morning.
Thanks to Brent Nixon of Vancouver Mountain Guides for the hookup and the beta.