Good dry summer conditions

Conditions report

ACMG Guide · Jul 25, 2018 · Glacier

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Conditions report

Location
NE Buttress The Rampart

Mark Herbison and I climbed the Left Hand start, NE Buttress of the Rampart. Access via the Asulkan Brook and moraines below the Dome Glacier was almost snow-free with lots of running water up to the base of the route.
We had 8 pitches of enjoyable climbing in a superb position. There were some 5.8 moves here and there, but it was not sustained. There were a few loose/lichen-covered sections (normal mountainside stuff!). We came back via Afton/Abbott.

Routes on Sir Donald, Uto, Eagle etc. look dry. The snow patch on the West Face bypass of Sir Donald is getting pretty small. See photos.